Koh Phangan

Backdated: 5th July 2012

We arrived in Ayutthaya train station at 12.00pm and then spent the next 30 hours either traveling or inside train/bus stations. It was absolutely knackering it has to be said. We met our first Americans of the whole trip – which may sound an odd thing to point out but there was a serious lack of Americans anywhere else is our travels - just lots of Europeans, Canadians and Aussies. 

Arriving in Phangan

So we arrived in Koh Phangan about 5 hours late due to various delays along the way as is to be expected of travelling in Thailand. We checked into our guesthouse and headed straight for the beach, despite the fact the sun was nearly set already. It was just a relief to be able to put our feet on sand and in the sea finally. 

We relaxed in the evening and called in an early night. The next day we got up and hired and bike (just one… after much deliberation, I finally decided to let Len drive). We spent the morning riding round, getting lost several times, visiting waterfalls. We wondered if we have even managed to find the first one at all, just a pathetic slither of water over some rocks. We scrambled up the rocks a little way to see if it was higher up but decided if it was up ahead it was too far. So we tried the next one. This one was more impressive than the first but still pretty pathetic! The lady at the waterfall told us that Phangan had no rain and all the waterfalls were pretty low. So we decided to give up on the waterfall ideas and just head to the beach. We were staying on Haad Yao, which I have to say was a lovely beach. We tried a few but that one was definitely my favourite. We spent most of the rest of the afternoon there, but eventually got bored and went to get changed etc and then try to find a view point that is marked up on the map. 

Exploring lush beaches

Unfortunately being the fool I am, I left the map at home when I was getting changed. Luckily Len guessed, and we did find a view point. Not sure it was the right one but it was nice. Stupidly steep – tried and failed to ride the bike up the hill and had to walk. Not really sure where the viewpoint was because the concrete ended and went to a dirt track we gave up walking up. So not even sure if we looked from the proper view point. It was still beautiful. There were no lights on the track up so we decided to head back before the actual sunset and try to get back to the beach to watch it. However this plan was ruined as the bike spluttered and gave up on us half way home. We knew there was nothing wrong with the bike so we knew we must have just been out of gas. Well… I say nothing wrong with the bike, but I think it goes without saying that the petrol meter thing wasn’t working. Another stroke of luck meant that some Irish people had also broken down further up the hill due to a flat tyre. One of them offered to go and get us some on the one of the two bikes that was working – a real life saver. 

We missed the sunset and so decided to treat ourselves to relaxing oil massages on the beach to overcome the stress. It was lush and we then went to get food on the beach but by the time the food came we were both half asleep and not very hungry. 

The next day we decided to rent the bike for another day and enquired about elephant trekking but we felt that the price was too high for the amount of time and considering that the waterfalls were empty so we wouldn’t trek to the waterfalls. So we went to Koh Ma and went snorkelling instead. Took a little while to get over water in the eye but it was really good fun eventually and cheap because we just hired the snorkel and didn’t go on a trip. There is a sand strip you can walk to get to the reefy bit. So worth it. 

My bucket of booze

We then just decided to ride the bike around and explore the island… great fun. We also booked our transport over to Krabi for the day after the Full Moon Party. 

Full Moon Party

Then we went over the Haad Rin early intended to meet a friend for dinner but ended up just completely lost and unable to find a commonplace to meet. So we just got painted and went into the party early. Buying whiskey buckets and chicken burgers. We then found our friends in the party – it was a really good atmosphere and we had a really good time early on. Unfortunately we peaked quite early and ended up home by 2.30.. FMP definitely something I need to try again haha.

Temples, temples, temples

 

Backdated: 21st June 2012

Today was our temple tour of Chiang Mai. The plan: Wat Phra Singh – Wat Chedi Luang – Wat Prathat Doi Suthep. 

So we walked over to Wat Phra Singh first of all. It was lovely and peaceful. We walked past one of the rooms and didn’t enter because there was a row of monks all meditating opposite the doorway whom we didn’t think would appreciate the disturbance. However, as we wandered past a second time we saw a Chinese lady inside, so thought we would go in since someone had already gone in and they didn’t seem upset by her. Embarrassingly, it wasn’t until the last moment on entering the temple that we realised they were wax figures of previous resident monks… No wonder they didn’t mind the disturbance. 

Chanting session

Monks making reparis

After a peaceful 20 minutes wander around Phra Singh and having read most of its inspirational signs hung in trees, we left to see Chedi Luang. Not really knowing where we were walking we actually got into the grounds via a side entrance which exposed us first to the 700 year old chedi. While it is in a pretty rough state and being worked on by builders, it is still an awe-inspiring sight. Although I can’t decide which I preferred; the old chedi or the interior of the temple. I can’t put my finger on why but I much preferred the temple to others we have visited so far. I felt very comfortable there to sit and think about things. 

Upon leaving the temple grounds, we got to chatting with a guy who is visiting from Bangkok. He told us about a religious festival going on in the evening at 5 – many monks coming here to pray. So we decided to go to Doi Suthep sooner rather than later so that we would come back in time. 

Making my offering at the temple 

Myself in Doi Suthep

Once we had, rather upsettingly, walked all the way to the bus station, we accepted that it was gonna cost 500 baht between 2 of us for a return trip. Halfway up the hill on the way to the temple, a Chinese couple of friends joined us and I instigated a one sentence Chinese convo by asking the boy’s name in Chinese but quickly abandoned the idea when he replied in English, clearly having no faith in my language skills. We were then further ripped off by buying flowers and incense at the bottom of the stairs for 40 baht when the same was sold at the top for 10 baht. However, this was definitely the highlight of the day – such a peaceful temple with more pilgrims than tourists. The atmosphere in this temple was so much nicer than the others. We even joined in the merit-making ourselves offering Buddha flowers, incense and candles as a mark of respect and thanks for the teachings he gave us. After we had given our offerings, we were then blessed with holy water and given holy cotton wristbands by a monk which was a great experience. The temple also offers great views over all of Chiang Mai – just a shame the cloud was sitting quite low. 

Chilling in the temple

On the way back to Chiang Mai, we asked our driver if he’d mind taking us to the waterfall near the temple. I meant the big waterfall that has a big sign and you have to pay admission for… missing this fact, the guy took us past that one to a little natural area with a little running stream with a small waterfall. We went and took some nice pictures anyway and it was nice… oh well I’m sure there are more waterfalls to be seen! 

After a little rest in the hostel and some food, we walked to the temple that we were told would have a ceremony at 5pm. There was a guy hovering at the entrance who advised us that if we had time we should return at 8am when there was a ceremony… 
‘So nothing is happening tonight?’ 
‘Oh you know the festival?’ 
‘Yes a man told me earlier that something would happen tonight?’ 
‘No… just the usual chanting at 5pm’ 

So we went over to the monk chat area where you can sit and talk to a monk, ask him all the questions you want so he can practise the English he learns at university. It was really interesting to learn about the monks and also get some questions answered about Buddhism. He told us he supported Man City – Len later accused him of being a glory hunter… haha. We then watched the chanting for half hour – more than enough for us. The most fascinating part was how long the monks were… from 10 up the monk told us. And at heart it was a bit like school assembly – fidgeting, itching, giggling or chatting. It was nice to see a human side to monks who are normally nothing but fully composed. 

Turkish food in Chiang Mai

To finish our day we went and enjoyed some Turkish food with a group of CouchSurfers and came home to rest for our cooking course tomorrow! Night =]